Cymbaline

'CYMBALINE' (5.7 PG13)

Pitch 1 (5.7):

Climb the knobs until they peter out to gain the first bolt. Continue up and then left, passing 3 more bolts (5.7) before gaining a "U" shaped flake incut. Good gear here (Yellow and Green aliens). Head up and left to the 5th and final bolt, making a frictiony move from a small black knob. Head back right and up to the 2-bolt ring anchor (110').

Pitch 2 (5.7):

Head up a left facing flake to its end. Head up toward a large black knob to the first bolt. Pass the knob to a series of broken ledges. Once at the ledges, follow them up and right to a left facing flake. Climb past the flake and up to the 2-bolt ring anchor. (105').

Pitch 3 (5.7/5.8):

From the anchors, head up and slightly right for 20' to the roof above. Good pro (#1 Camelot) under the roof. Then climb left under the roof 10' before reaching a bolt on an overlap. Be sure to sling the bolt to minimize rope drag before heading past the overlap. Make a delicate move (5.7+) over the roof then friction out right and up to reach the 2nd bolt. A bit runout from the 1st bolt. Continue up and back slightly left to the last bolt. Head up and left to a 2-bolt ring anchor (90'). One has the option of rapping the route from here or continue on to join up with 'Skin Skeers' (coming in from the right, marked by a bolt 60' above).

Pitch 4, optional (5.5/5.6 R/X):

From the anchors, head up slightly left (5.6) to reach subtle dishes and nice incut edges. Follow these features (5.4) to the lone bolt above (60'). Pass the bolt and head to the big roof above. Gear anchor here. Easy 4th/5th class to the far left and over block overlaps to reach 3rd class terrain. Walk off to the west and to the cleft between Penstemon and Dusy.

Considered the left most route on Dusy Dome (although one lone bolt was spotted by the FA party, 25' left of Pitch 2), the route starts at a series of very large knobs just past a left facing corner, approximately 50' left of 'Skin Skeers (as shown in the current Courtright Reservoir guidebook by Dwight Kroll).

This route is best approached from the upper eastern apron of Penstemon Dome. To reach this portion of Penstemon, its best to continue east along the creek bed, just past Penstemon and eventually gaining elevation toward Dusy.  Gain an open granite slab, signatured by three very large boulders. Head up toward the eastern slabs of Penstemon Dome (some light 4th class slab travel) to a point where the two domes get close. Locate a climbers trail cut through chinquapin brush (yep, a new trail has been hacked out) marked by a cairn. The trail will head toward the base of Dusy's left side. Once at the base, continue along the base until the left facing corner is reached. Large knobs to the right of this corner is the start of 'Cymbaline'.

NOTE

This route was equipped to allow for a single 70 meter rope rappel of the route. The final 4th pitch (a short section shared with 'Skin Skeers' final bolt) has a gear anchor after 90' and one will have to commit to climbing out left past this belay, around the big roof and eventually walk off to the west (easy 5th).

• 70 meter rope

• (6) draws

• (6) slings with biners

• Pro to 1"