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Peak Mountain 3

The Temporary War aka The Short Battle

FA Albert Han
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Are you dying to try

The Forever War

but don't want to lead it? Well you're in luck, because there's an easy way up to the anchors!

I too wanted to prove I could climb like Pamela Shanti Pack (boy, would I find out how wrong I was). I didn't want to exhaust myself going up

Intergalactic Bong Rip

, so I peaked around the corner of

The Forever War

to find another way up to the anchors.

The climb starts with a little bit of crack climbing and transitions to a little bit of offwidth. After the offwidth/chimney section in order to gain the last ledge, you'll have to execute a dicey move -- it's the crux, it's delicate, and it's unprotected. If that makes you uncomfortable, you can try the offwidth variation, but that would make the climb considerably harder.

If you're not a 5.12 - 5.13 climber in Vedauwoo and you're going to TR

The Forever War

, prepare to be humbled. Keep the ropes separated on your rappel so that they don't twist. I recommend a single rope rappel.

BTW, this didn't look like it had been climbed before. It was chossy, and vegetation was present in the cracks. If someone had the FA though, just drop a note.

Location

Just right of

The Forever War

, you'll see two parallel cracks in the back of the alcove behind a tree.

Protection

1-2 pieces each of #1 - #4 Camalot. There's a large chickenhead above the offwidth section.