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Peak Mountain 3

Climbs of Passion Exit

FA Cowan, Mattson, McWhirter, '83
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Description

This line climbs

Climb and Punishment

for its first 50 feet before taking the finger crack that exits on the left. The crack involves a relatively short battle to stay balanced whilst jamming. It seemed best to belay just past the lip before continuing up and left to reach the jumbled rocks above

Finger Grinder

, where easy scrambling down through blocks leads to the

Glenda's Chimney

rappel.

The line has quality moves, especially with the approach via

Climb and Punishment

. Plenty of no hands rest options exist just prior to cutting into the finger crack, including the version I found that resembled sitting in a Barker Lounger. Perhaps it was my creativity in resting before heading into the line, but I still think the line is soft for the Vedauwoo 11c grade. [Perhaps it is] comparable to

Max Factor

but less sustained.

Protection

Gear from 3" to tips. [It is useful] to have extra 1-3 inch gear for a belay anchor over the lip.

Recommended rack with grain of salt: doubles #3-0.5 BD + 2x #1 TCU + (belay) one extra #2-#4 Camalot + 1-2" pieces.