Maps and Legends

I went lookin' for my own Butterballs or Pinky Paralysis and this one is as good as any in the Park. Down low there is a bit of a reach problem at a little roof that requires pulling on some flared locks up to a no hands rest (5.11 height dependent). After the no hands continue up to an overhanging off-fingers splitter (5.11) that will test your endurance to the bolted belay. As with Police State if you are tempted to recon above to the huge ledge beware of loose blocks right above the belay resting on sloping sand....But there is some potential up there.

To the left of Lehamite Falls.

Thin wires to maybe 3" cams. Save some 3/4-1" cams and such for the top. 2 rope rappel.