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MapThe Wand
Description
Climb the first pitch of Knuckle Buster. From the belay traverse a puckering no pro dike (maybe 5.10-) that runs straight to the right and to the amazing crack of The Wand. The route only climbs from this dike above through a steep bit of splitter off-fingers to an anchor at a pinnacle (double rope rappel to ground) with most of the amazing thin crack still below. The lower crack has an extremely thin start that has not gone to my knowledge and is one of the most beautiful cracks in the Park.
Location
To the right of Lehamite Falls. Starts off the belay at the end of the pitch of Knuckle Buster.
Protection
Wires, TCU's to 2". A couple of 1" cams useful IIRC :).
Routes in Lehamite Falls
- 4The Wand5.11c/dTrad