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Peak Mountain 3

The Cavity

FA Doug Snively (likely in the '70s or early '80s)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a one-pitch route that may be used to start

Femp

or

J-Crack

. This old-school climb is the business for 5.10-solid leaders at the grade should jump on it! Begin right of

J-Crack

(but before

Femp

) below a huge, round crystalline hole in the cliff, which harbors a large tree. Clamber up into the hole and pull crystals up into a left-facing corner. Ascend that (the crux) via sustained laybacking, lacking any noticable stances for placing gear. Belay on a ledge. It is possible to traverse right from here and downclimb the first pitch of Femp or rappel off of a dubious tree, but this is annoying and somewhat scary--best to continue up one of the fine routes above.

Protection

It requires mainly very small gear, and a #3.5 Friend fits the flare near the top.