- Edit (TBD)
Description
Superb route. Start on the flake right of the popular
Pear Buttress
.
P1. Thin lieback corner (9) and hand-traverse left (8) to a ledge, belay just up from a crystal dyke.
P2. Traverse 10 feet or so left to the second thin crack up the face. The first one is 10b. Start with a few difficult and insecure jams (9) then continue this pitch at solid 5.8 to a nice ledge past a flake.
P3. Lieback the nice, left-arcing, left-facing dihedral (9) to a big ledge.
P4. Continue up and right on easy, blocky slab climbing to a nook under The Cave (5.2?)
P5. Exit The Cave through the slot to the left of the large block. There is one tricky move, but the holds are there....
Descent: Downclimb a gully to the east. The downclimbing includes steep slabs and some 5th-class moves, so follow cairns and look around for the safest path to them. Don't head downhill immediately after the Cave exit, instead traverse until a worn path down the gully comes into view and scramble over to join that.
Protection
Full set wired nuts, Friends from #0.5-#4 with doubles in #0.5-#2, some micro cams or TCUs, and a few medium hexes.
Routes in J-Crack Slab Area
- 7Loose Ends5.9Trad