The Prow (Kit Carson)

The Prow is the prominent "Fin" that rises along the southwest ridge of Kit Carson Mountain. The rock is beautiful "Crestone conglomerate", basically smooth, consolidated lava and granite with big jugs all over the place. They look like they could just break off in your hand, but when you grab them they are very solid.

Ascend up to the base of The Prow on 3rd class terrain. The climb starts with a hard to protect, 5.8 move up a bulge with a few loose blocks. After that, the route finding and climbing is easy - just stay on the Prow. The remainder of the climbing never exceeds 5.6. However, you are climbing on the conglomerate knobs that sometimes break off. There are a few false summits along the way. Eventually, you will arrive at a large ledge that will allow you to ascend Challenger Point (to the west) or Kit Carson (to the east by 3rd class climbing). The best option is to continue straight up for another low 5th class pitch to the summit of Kit Carson.

Keep in mind that protection can be hard to find.

For the descent, head east for about a mile (climbing over another peak) to a broad valley (lowpoint between Kit Carson and Ellingwood) that will allow you to return back to your camp. Do not try to cut back too early or you will be descending some scary looking slabs.

Per

lordokol

:

Scramble 3rd class to the base of the fin. This route is very committing, and there are very little options for retreat. Once you're on, you're on.

P1 of the route is about a 60 foot, 5.6 ridge that can be simul-climbed. It ends at an obvious, overhanging headwall. This is where the second pitch, and the crux, starts.

P2 climbs up this head wall, one or two 5.8 moves. Some guidebooks say to go right once above this headwall to avoid a bulge. As long as you don't go too far right for too long, this might be OK. I think it would be best to just stick to the ridge. I went too far right and ended up on some of the scariest 5.11 unprotected face climbing I've ever seen. 60' run-out on sloping holds with 1000 feet of air below you = not too fun (unless you are sick in the head).

The rest of the pitches follow the ridge to the summit, mostly 5.6 to 5.7 moves all the way. The rock is solid and the exposure is real. Towards the top the climbing eases off to a 4th class, knife edge ridge and meets with the trail to Challenger Point. From here, belay from next to the trail and take the headwall directly in front of you to the summit (easy 5.6).

This is a GREAT, fun climb.

A single set of nuts and cams up to a #3 Friend. Narrow profile cams like Aliens work best.