Merhar Direct

The direct line in couloir, the right side of it offers 5.6 rock climbing described by Garry Roach as Merhar. Step to vary step (60 degree) snow. There are one or two easier rock section lower at couloir. The upper crux is the short but overhung section just above 60-70 degree snow. It was for me M5-6. If it has a few inches less snow, it will be impossible with my one ice tool. The couloir terminates at small notch at 13,300', very close to regular route on Crestone Needle. It was my second to last 14'er (except Culebra). It took me 12 hours RT from my camp just below the lakes.

It is the left of two couloir system of NE wall of Crestone Needle. This is about 1000 feet left of Ellingwood Arete but just left of start of Full Ledges variation and is less than a half mile west of Lower Colony Lake.

A small alpine rack.