- Edit (TBD)
Description
When the masses line up for the North Arete, you may be tempted to find another line. Maybe you have heard of a North Face variation, so you spy a line out right of the original start. This is one of those lines.
P.1) Start in a chimney/gully feature a short walk right of the North Arete chimney start. Go up and right on mostly class 4 terrain. Belay off a horn.
P.2) The dangerous and untrustworthy Walter White dihedral. Straight up is some loose low 5th class terrain which looks pretty tame. Skip that. Go right until you find a steep and dirty dihedral. Climb the dihedral on poor gear, crumbling foot holds, lichen, and loose blocks. Continue up through better rock with poor pro until you can build a belay.
P.3) Mostly loose 4th class. Tops out right of the "Crystal Corridor"
Location
Hike up the trail past the North Arete start and find a nice looking gully.
Protection
Trad gear. Not sure it will help all that much.
Routes in North Arete
- 4Completely Methed Up (North Face Variation)5.9Alpine · Trad