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Peak Mountain 3

Completely Methed Up (North Face Variation)

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Description

When the masses line up for the North Arete, you may be tempted to find another line. Maybe you have heard of a North Face variation, so you spy a line out right of the original start. This is one of those lines.

P.1) Start in a chimney/gully feature a short walk right of the North Arete chimney start. Go up and right on mostly class 4 terrain. Belay off a horn.

P.2) The dangerous and untrustworthy Walter White dihedral. Straight up is some loose low 5th class terrain which looks pretty tame. Skip that. Go right until you find a steep and dirty dihedral. Climb the dihedral on poor gear, crumbling foot holds, lichen, and loose blocks. Continue up through better rock with poor pro until you can build a belay.

P.3) Mostly loose 4th class. Tops out right of the "Crystal Corridor"

Location

Hike up the trail past the North Arete start and find a nice looking gully.

Protection

Trad gear. Not sure it will help all that much.