North Face Variation (aka Chossnanza)

This variation to the north arete can be a fun alternative to the standard route for those who enjoy bad rock and mediocre climbing.

P1: Start in the standard chimney described for the north arete route. After exiting the chimney, you will see a dark, lichen covered ramp running to the right. Climb above the ramp on the face on good horns, and traverse right until just before the dark, lichen covered rock rib. This rib is prominently visible on the approach. Watch for loose rock on the traverse, and find the best dirty crack to build your belay amid sand and rubble. 190 feet, 5.6.

P2: Make note of the orange face above and to your right, split by an obvious finger crack. Traverse across the dark rock, and start heading up towards the orange face. This pitch was more reminiscent of a game of Jenga than actual rock climbing. Be careful to pull on only the quartz blocks that don’t move when you touch them. Pro is hard to find, but the climbing is easy. Belay at the finger crack, although if there is a party above, you may want to belay off to the side to avoid rockfall. 120 feet, class 4.

Note: It may also be possible to ascend to the left of the rock rib through a heavily vegetated area. The fact that this is even an option to be considered should be an indication of the rock quality here.

P3: The money pitch. After pulling a few fun moves, enter the most heinous sand gully you have ever encountered. Run it out on scree and loose blocks, or stay right and place questionable gear behind hollow, detached flakes. Aim for the crystal on the right side of the gully near the top. Marvel at the exfoliating rock on the adjacent wall, then clip an ancient, manky knife blade and climb a few steeper moves to a very loose, sandy ledge.

At this point you will be able to see the final crystal band of the standard route to your left, the route you wish you had climbed instead of this one, and you can head towards that. Again, avoid knocking anything loose, and top out to a bomber belay crack in the first solid granite you’ve seen in a while. Finish as per the standard route. 180 feet, 5.6.

Overall, this was probably the worst route I have ever climbed, and I do not recommend it to anyone, ever.

Same start as the north arete in the chimney.

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. Landscaping stakes and a hammer may be useful for protecting the sand chute on P3.