Left-facing Corner Crack

Variety of interesting moves in different rock situations.

Up the corner to a ledge, then up a gully with grass and rocks (or see Variation 1). Next step right from gully onto rock buttress, and climb up a vertical crack on left side of buttress. Next into a gully of big rocks (or see Variation 20. Finish on right-facing corner with flakes higher up, to top of cliff about 25 feet right and below from big three-foot-diameter tree.

. Variation 1: (instead of climbing up the grass+rock gully) step right onto rock buttress and climb up a vertical crack almost to the crest of the buttress, then traverse left 8-10 feet almost to the gully and rejoin the main route in climbing up another vertical crack - (5.9).

. Variation 2: (instead of going into gully of big rocks) step across left onto ridge and up this to a slab face (with a tricky move 5.9+), then more positive holds to the top - (mostly 5.6-7 except one move).

warning

: 60 meter rope is likely

not

long enough to lower off or rappel from top of route. Re-check rope length and make sure to tie a knot in the other end of the rope so climber does not drop off before reaching the ground.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Left-facing corner about 25 feet left downhill from big right-facing corner with big hole in bottom.

See on this Photo

. . . .

or on this Photo

No anchor hardware or intermediate bolts as of May 2017.

Top-Roping: Perhaps could use the big tree with three-foot-diameter trunk at the top of the cliff as anchor, together with some directional.

But using an anchor near the top of the cliff for Top-Roping in the usual way with belay from the bottom would be dangerous while climbing near the ground, because of the large amount of rope-stretch. So use a special "semi-static" rope with much less stretch than a normal dynamic climbing rope - (or perhaps the belayer could keep the climber under constant strong tension).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see

Description page for Talsky sector

.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.