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Peak Mountain 3

Hole Face

FA TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Variety of interesting moves.

Mount the leaning flake, next up the face (arete is on) to a ledge. Next trend left a bit, and up on fun flakes to reach left-trending ridge, and along crest of ridge to meet the next route to the left.

warning

: 60 meter rope is likely

not

long enough to lower off or rappel from top of this climb, if continue on another route to top of cliff. Re-check rope length and make sure to tie a knot in the other end of the rope so climber does not drop off before reaching the ground.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

On face next to big right-facing corner with hole at bottom -- with detached leaning flake about five feet high and a foot wide.

See on this Photo

. . . .

or on this Photo

Protection

No anchor hardware or intermediate bolts as of May 2017.

Top-Roping: Perhaps could use the big tree with three-foot-diameter trunk at the top of the cliff as anchor, together with some directional.

But using an anchor near the top of the cliff for Top-Roping in the usual way with belay from the bottom would be dangerous while climbing near the ground, because of the large amount of rope-stretch. So use a special "semi-static" rope with much less stretch than a normal dynamic climbing rope - (or perhaps the belayer could keep the climber under constant strong tension).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see

Description page for Talsky sector

.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


Routes in 3-Talsky