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Peak Mountain 3

The Eagle has Landed

FA JD Merritt 02/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This tall white and orange streak, roof, and headwall was the first thing that caught my attention at Eagle's Rest.Begin up easy terrain, taking care scrambling to the first bolt up the grassy corner. Gradually ramps up in steepness and difficulty, gaining the waterworked white streak. The usual choss of Eagle's is naturally glued together here by a coating of precipitated minerals: feels almost like limestone for a bit. Intricate and varied throughout. Good, tricky climbing on quality rock, especially on the exposed upper headwall, where you'll have to manage pump, routefind creatively, and use your feet well for crux after crux, all the way to the chains.Knot the end of a 70m rope, or use an 80m.

Location

The white streak on the rightmost side of the dream wall. Start up ledgy/grasseneering terrain, which could probably use more cleaning below the first bolt.

Protection

Bring 16 draws. Lower biners at the anchor, may replace with steel later. Using long runners on the first few bolts will reduce rope drag. Knot the end of a 70m rope and get down with stretch, or use an 80.