- Edit (TBD)
Description
Maybe the longest single pitch at eagle's rest. Pulls through the highest roof at the skyline on amazing jugs. Climb either of the two 5.9 starts to the low ledge at 30ft with a small dead tree on it's left. Remains sustained on a slight overhang for a good 75 feet from here, with an occasional good hold thrown in here or there. Feels relatively cruxless but demands some endurance and a good read of the features. Passes left of the midway roof, and remains technical as the angle eases. Get a reprieve before the final roof, and save one longer alpine draw for the bolt below the roof. Soak in the view and do big moves to the apex of the whole wall. Rock quality is significantly better than RUD. Kindof epic. The rope will weigh a ton at the top. Again, without the full chalk markdown or hanging draws this will feel significantly harder.Important to avoid the sun for this one. Doesn't get much tree shade up there.
Location
On the Dream wall, the left of the trio of tall routes. Two possible 5.9 starts lead to the ledge at 30ft. Can be done in a single pitch or multipitched from this ledge.
Protection
Bring 20 quickdraws. Rings at the top. Bring several long runners for the start, and save one for the bolt below the high roof. Knot the end of the rope, whatever the length. use an 80m to get down with one lower.
Routes in (C) Dream Wall
- 8Launch Escape System5.12-Sport