We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

West Face

FA Bob Culp and Stan Shepard, 1961. FFA: John Behrens and Jim Erickson, 1968
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The route begins immediately right of

Hair City

, following the crack system seen in the photo below. The first pitch is great and I'm surprised it hasn't been added to the site.

P1- Climb the very thin crack (11a- one move) to a good ledge. One can avoid the thin crack by starting in from the right and traversing left to the ledge above the thin crack. Climb the crack and flake system past two pitons (the first of which is badly bent) to a bulge. Clip the pin above the bulge and make a funky face move out left, then move back right into the crack system (10a/b). Climb up and left, joining

Hair City

for the remainder of the pitch. Belay from the bolts at the top of the huge pillar.

Either rap from here or continue with one of three options: P3 of

West Buttress

(5.7), P2 of

Hair City

(5.9), or the actual continuation of the West Face:

P2- Climb the corner/roof up and right of the belay (5.8). Continue upwards (easy 5th) to the top of the Bastille.

Protection

Nuts, including RPs. Set of cams up to #2 Camalot.