Out to Lunge Variation

The original line: climb the right-facing dihedral on the left edge of the short slab to the roof, traverse right 10', and bust up through the 'v' in the roof. The description I found said to pull through the roof "via a desperate reach". Either Mr. Erickson is 8' tall or whatever he was reaching is now gone and the original grade of .11a is a laughable sandbag. There's now a pretty amazing bouldery sequence (at least V4 as I did it) that will deposit you on a ledge just below the true summit of the Bastille.

The direct variation: the slab can be ascended quite directly to the thin crack in the roof where the boulder awaits. This doesn't add to the grade but would add substantially to the seriousness of the route as the ~25' slab is unprotectable. Maybe a highball pad would save you. It's also 10x cooler climbing than the 5.6 dihedral on thin, techy Eldo slab (.10b?). The slab logically splits into 3 sections. I worked slightly to the right in the second section.

Descent: scramble off to the North carefully. Low 5th class downclimbing is required.

It is on the summit block 50' left of

Your Mother

(through the squeeze).

A standard rack to 2". An anchor can be set on a tree about 10'-15' back from the edge - be smart about how you extend your anchor to reduce rock and rope wear.

A TR can be set up by scrambling around the left side of the wall and finding the tree (better option than some creative gear in fragile rock).