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Peak Mountain 3

Two in the Busch

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Description

Two in the Busch climbs a series of easy cracks separated by vertical scrub oak thrashing to get to a beautiful 5.9 splitter dihedral two pitches off the base of the Monument.

P1: Start at a nice ledge with some giant huecos to stash your packs in, and climb a 5.8 finger crack to series of blocky ledges. Follow the blocky ledges up and right through some not too bad scrub oak to a huge ledge and a two bolt anchor.

P2: Off the comfy ledge climb an easy hand crack to a section of vertical jungle navigation significantly more arduous than the first. Climb these scrub oaks up and right to the base of the totally bitchin' dihedral you thrashed your way up here to climb. Make a gear belay and save your #1s for the next pitch.

P3: Negotiate a potentially awkward flare for about 3 feet to get to the climbing you came up here for. Lieback jam and smear up this awesome crack to its terminus at a roof. Step to the left and belay at a two bolt anchor. From here it's two raps to the ground with a 70m rope.

P4?: Adventurous (suicidal) climbers may proceed up and left through an extremely chossy roof crack with loose blocky jugs at about 5.10+ to another large ledge, where the route may lead to more climbing to the top of the Monument. There are no known anchors above pitch 3.

Location

Located around the corner from seduction line, just past handbone, but before cornucopia. If you hit the Chinese Handcuffs alcove you've gone too far. This route is best identified by the awesome dihedral about 3 pitches up the wall.

Protection

Long sleves, 70m rope, double rack to #2