Papillon

This route is an amazing journey and one of the best climbs in Red Rocks.Start just left of Seduction Line. Belayer can stand on a chockstone at the top of a loose chimney.P1 (110’, 5.12b): Jerry Handren, in his typical understated fashion, describes this pitch as “worrying." I'm inclined to agree. Expect difficult-to-read climbing and protection that is compounded by a steadily increasing pump. Begin by carefully scrambling up decomposing rock to a short left-facing corner and roof. Undercling around this and continue up a left-facing layback. Committing moves lead to a shake and questionable gear. From this stance traverse leftwards across the wall to an obvious pod near the arete. From here on out the gear is good but it is pumpy to place and well-spaced. Launch upwards onto the varnished headwall to a climatic crux near the top of the pitch. If you blow it from here, you will punch a hole in the sky. Don’t blow it, and instead move right to a bolted anchor on a comfortable ledge. Take extreme care to manage rope drag on this pitch (see note under protection).P2 (100’, 5.12c): Mostly bolted, but bring a 0.75 Camalot and a few slings. Left off the belay then up the wall via interesting pockets formed by thin patches of varnish. The first crux is a long reach and thin traverse left to a good hold. The second crux is pulling the roof above. Insecure climbing leads to a bolted anchor at a stance.P3 (100’, 5.11b): Entirely bolt protected, but sparsely so. Wander up the varnished face above. Unfortunately a lot of the rock here feels quite fragile but if you made it through the first two pitches this will be a walk in the park. Consider not belaying at the anchor at the top of the wall and instead top out and savor the moment by belaying at a higher anchor on the massive rubble-strewn ledge above.

2x Green Aliens, Blue X4’s, or #1 TCU’s… whatever you have as long as they are slightly smaller than 0.3 Camalots. 2x 0.3 to #1 Camalots Wired Stoppers RP’s Many Draws and Slings Double Ropes or a 70m rope A Skilled and Affirming Belayer

The two ascents I know of prior to mine employed double ropes on the first pitch. I used a single rope but tied into both ends, dropping one end about a third of the way up. The point is be very mindful of rope drag on pitch 1.