- Edit (TBD)
Description
Touted as one of the most difficult leads on the dome, which is saying something, but with a name like that, how could you not want to climb it! Feels like a multipitch adventure.
Bolts have been replaced with ASCA hardware, so no excuses.
The crux is down low and is well protected, big moves off thin crimps. A runout up and left to the 4th bolt is not too hard but slightly terrifying. A micronut midway through this section might be able to help, at least psychologically. A nice finger crack higher can be loaded with gear to help protect the mantle into a giant hole before the 5th bolt. Then... enter the praying mantle. First, figure out how to grab the dike above. If you're under 6', the easiest option will be a full on no-hands praying-mantis style leap out of the hole. Snatch the thin dike, quickly figure out how to mantle it, and a thin crack will then accept some micro cams. Then look for the anchor out right.
Location
See picture. Start up some ledges on the left that lead right into a handcrack, from which you can clip the first bolt. Note the picture in the guidebook is slightly off on the route line.
Protection
5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Single rack form tiny to #2 will suffice. Can leave the 2 down low. A 70m should be able to get you to ledgey terrain.