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Peak Mountain 3

Frumious Bandersnatch

FA partially Leah Brickson and Brian Cooper, 2021 (maybe??)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch one is the crux, the rest is a fun day out on the rock.

P1, 5.9, ~200 feet: Scramble up the buttress of rock to a left facing crack. Make some fun moves up the crack until it peters out. The crux is navigating across a face climbing section to a slingable white horn. You can place a couple of tricky nuts in this face section (DMM offsets worked for me). When you reach the horn, turn left along an easy obvious dike. It is a long runout on this dike (probable ground fall, 5.4 X). I didn't place any bolts because I was worried this route had been done before. If it turns out we were the FA, I'd be totally down with placing a couple bolts on this section. Belay at a tiny tree that has a small crack next to it.

P2, 5.6, ~150 feet: Head up and slightly left on some fun scrambling.

P3, P4, 5.7: Continue upwards along the line of least resistance. You'll be funneled into a short vertical section with a lone ancient bolt. Continue past this along easy terrain. There's a long slabby section with a >6 inch crack at the top of it. I was tempted to go towards that crack, but turning left at this point proved to be easier and more protectable.

P5, P6: Wind your way to the top (follow the P7, P8 description of Fresh Gale for more details).

Location

Skirt along the base of the dome past all of the documented routes. The Moroccan Roll topo includes a reference to a "huge corner system". This corner system is shown in one of the pictures below.

Protection

nuts, double rack 0.2 to 4