Gambler's Fallacy

Begin beneath

D1

Pillar at a short, left-facing corner about 20 feet left of the top of the

North Chimney

.

P1:

5.6 (65m).

Climb the left-facing corner, then wander up the face on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. The belay takes #1-4 Camalots.

Rack: all gear.

P2: 5.10a (30m).

Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe rightward on a narrow ledge. Face climb up and right, aiming for a large, left-facing corner. Gain a stance at its base, and belay at two pins (back up with small cams, nuts).

Rac : 1 each small cams, 2 each cams to #1 Camalot.

P3: 5.10a (45m).

Jam and stem the hands to offwidth corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor (two nuts, one pin).

Rack: 1 each: RPs, all cams; 2 each #0.4-2 Camalots.

P4:

5.11a (40m).

Ascend the attractive finger crack straight up from the belay until it peters out on ledgy terrain. Traverse left on edges beneath a wave of rock (5.7 R), then meander upward past a rotten hand crack to a large belay ledge beneath the giant corner (fixed nuts plus small cams).

Rack : all gear except a #4 Camalot.

P5:

5.11d (30m).

A tough boulder problem on shallow jams ends quickly at a big, sloping ledge beneath the corner proper. Battle the pump (and cold) up the Winter Wall Dihedral to a two-bolt hanging stance at its top.

Rack: all gear.

P6:

5.13b (10m).

The Sport Pitch. Climb a short ways to a jagged roof, and reach left to clip the first bolt. Work around the arête, then power up the overhanging face past 3 more bolts to gain Table Ledge and a two-bolt anchor out left.

Rack: 2 each #0.75 Camalot (in roof), 4 quickdraws, *a kneepad proved useful on the FA.

P7:

5.12b (30m).

Step right to engage the sustained, overhanging crack (often wet) past a small roof at three-quarters height. Finish rightward to a stance and two-bolt anchor.

Rack: all gear.

P8: 5.13a (25m).

The Roof Pitch. Climb the crack and face up to a bolt, then crank over the roof (exposed!) past a second bolt out left. Follow the seam upward past a fixed nut to a belay ledge on the right with two bolts. Precarious.

Rack: 1 each small-med cams, #2 Camalot, nuts; 2ea #0.75-1 Camalot.

P9: 5.12d (20m).

Work up and right past 3 bolts (thin) to a finger crack splitting the blank wall. Follow this to a large ledge, then go up 5 more meters to belay at the top of the Diamond (one bolt, large nuts and/or mid-sized cams).

Rack: 1 each #1 Metolius - #0.75 Camalot, nuts; 3 quickdraws.

Gambler's Fallacy frees the first 5 pitches of Enos Mills Wall (with the recent 4th pitch finger crack variation), then cuts left and up mostly new terrain to the top of the Diamond.

Rack (M = Metolius; C = Camalot):

1 each: #0-1M, #3-4C, #4 RP - medium nuts.

2 each: #0.3C, large nuts.

3 each: #0.4C-2C.