Beethoven's Honeymoon

Although essentially a link-up, with approximately only eighty feet of previously unclimbed terrain, this is a fantastic route, and probably the most accessible 5.13 on the Diamond. It should become deservedly popular for people looking to up the ante from Diamond 5.12s, but finding The Honeymoon is Over and Gambler's Fallacy a bit much to bite off, and the frequent wetness issues on the Dunn-Westbay Indirect problematic. The nature of the climbing, with short lived, well protected cruxes, makes it an excellent candidate for no rehearsal, ground up efforts.

Begin by climbing the first five pitches of Eroica. (Possible in four if you link the two opening pitches.) After the crux of Eroica's fifth pitch, face climb right across jugs, passing another bolt en route to a two-bolt anchor at a small stance.

P6: 12a 50' Move left off the belay into the base of the obvious wide flake. A cam, or two leads to bolt protected, strenuous lay backing up the gaping flake, and a small ledge with fixed anchor. In comparison to the old school Eroica ratings, this pitch may be rated a bit softly, but it's fairly pumpy, especially if you're not well acclimated. Important: approximately ten feet into this pitch, and just to the left of the giant flake's start, there is a loose rail/flake feature. Resist the urge to grab it, as it could fall into the Casual Route. If by some miracle you find yourself with the cirque to yourself please trundle this flake.

P7: 13a 70' Undercling right off the anchor and join The Honeymoon is Over. Climb up another fun layback flake to a steep, bouldery bulge, and easier, but still tricky climbing to a fixed gear belay at Table Ledge.

P8: 12d 100' Continue as for The Honeymoon, but above the first bolt, avoid a difficult bouldery section by staying right in some fragile flakes, before underclinging back left into The Honeymoon, ten feet higher. More awesome underclinging, and lay backing leads pasts several rests to a heartbreaking long move near the end of the pitch.

P9: 12b 120' Traverse left off the belay past two bolts, to gear protected climbing up seams. A boulder problem finale, guards the very tippy top of the Diamond.

Notes:

It is possible to avoid sharing terrain with the Casual route by climbing the right side of the D1 pillar to a right facing corner/roof system located to the right of the Casual Route’s second pitch 5.9 finger crack. This helps avoid any issues with crowding.

The once spicy fourth pitch of Eroica now has several fixed pins and wires, and is very well protected.

Begin with

Eroica

.

A single set of wires and cams to #3 C4 with a few extra small to medium cams.