North Gully + NW ridge

Interesting rock situations with fun scrambling sequences -- at first in a remarkable gully, then up and over protruding rocks and "gendarmes" out on a ridge with continuous big views. The exposure of the climbing up the gully is dramatic and sustained.

connections: This route starts from the "Middle Sand Flat", which connects better with the Calico / Tank Pass (bypassing Calico Peak) or with Calico Basin parking to the SE (outside the Scenic Loop road). To connect with Calico Peak or 2nd Pull-Out parking by way of the "Middle Pass", likely better to use the NorthWest Ridges route.

route: Find the gully up into the north end of the Red Book Point summit ridge - - > see Photo

Scramble up South into the gully a ways, then a sustained semi-layback (5.4) on its left wall with a deep cleft below. Find a spot to exit left (class 4 or 5) from the gully up onto a wide slabby section of the summit ridge. Work SE up the ridge over (or around) various obstacles - (trying to stay on or close to the crest of the ridge as much as possible) - until reach the summit rock -> see Photo.

descent ... options ...

Reverse the route? - (but likely more difficult and scary in downward direction, better if have experience and practice down-climbing class 5 sequences) - See instructions for "Alternate second half" under the second (north) half of the Red Book Ridge traverse route. ... or ...

If started from the west side of the Calicos (if the bottom of this route can be reached from there), likely easiest is to take the "West side" route in reverse. If started from the east side of the Calicos, perhaps easiest to reverse the "SouthEast gully + face" route (low class 5, with less dramatic exposure and less sustained climbing than "North gully + ridge" route).

warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.

. . (Might help to find "rbp" on the map).

Hike and scramble up to the "Middle Sand Flat" (GPS lat long approx N36.1577 W115.4354).-.(elevation 4325 ft /1320m). See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).

Protection for trad leading is unknown.

No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection.