SouthEast gully+face

Lots of interesting scrambling. The route up to Red Book Point from the east side of the Calicos with the least amount of difficult climbing and navigation. Worth getting to know first to later use as a descent from another route from the east side.

. . (the print guidebook by Courtney Purcell mentions a "Southeast Ridge" route. We're not sure where that goes, but perhaps it's a variation on this route).

route: Exit left from the SE gully - somewhere around (N36.1555 W115.4319) - and scramble up steeper roughly WSW toward the summit ridge. Soon with a zag to the right, then a steeper zig up left (sustained class 4 or 5). After about 200 feet - somewhere around (N36.1552 W115.4325) - aim more right (NNW) toward the summit - [ see Photo ] - with some navigation over and around various gaps and shelves, and one or two low class 5 climbing sections to get there.

descent: Return the same way.

warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.

. . (Might help to find "rbp" on the map).

From Calico Basin the idea is to start up the wide gully toward the Middle Pass, then exit left up to the summit ridge ... From Assisi Rd parking (N36.1495 W115.4199) : Hike NW 0.4 mile (toward the big lower SE ridge of Red Book Point) on rough gravel road to some picnic tables, then NNW 0.3 mile going right along the base of the ridge to the base of a wide gully (N36.1540 W115.4260) . . (this point could also be reached by going 0.4 mile WSW from Sandstone Rd parking).

The central gully starts narrow and steep, so likely better at first to scramble up right (NNW) onto slabs above its right side and scramble up on those (roughly West) for about 350 feet, then traverse left into the central gully and scramble up that, at first West then curves WNW for a total of about 0.4 mile -- keep looking up left to try to see the highest point on the ridge above. Somewhere around (N36.1555 W115.4319), exit the gully left into the steeper climbing.

No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.