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Peak Mountain 3

Feel the Stern

FA Max Manson, Dakota Walz, & Lane Mathis, Aug. 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Feel the Stern climbs up the East Buttress of Ship's Prow on the left side. We attempted a line directly up the main face (rad) but were thwarted by a lack of protection. So, we lowered down to the main ledge and climbed the line as described below:

P1.

5.7, 180ft

For the most part, this shares the start of

Scots on the Rocks

. Aim for the hand crack up high, and belay on the nice ledge.

P2.

5.6, 20ft

Move the belay up to the left side of the buttress on a mega ledge. This can be linked with P1 with rope drag.

P3.

5.10c, 90ft

This is the best pitch of the route. Start climbing up the left side of a detached pillar, do a couple mantels, and step right into a wonderful, left-leaning dihedral with a tufa-like fin at the top. Belay in a left-facing corner on a nice ledge.

P4.

5.9, 80ft

Follow up inconsistent finger cracks to a ledge. Then go up the nice hand crack, and belay on a shattered ledge.

P5.

5.8, 100ft

Choose your own adventure to the summit of the buttress. We trundled lots of blocks here, and there is likely more to be done.

Protection

Doubles of #0.2-#3

Triples of #0.4-0.5 (optional

Nuts

Draws

60m rope