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Peak Mountain 3

Waves of Shade

FA Dakota Walz, Tim Noble, & Fidi Nagy, Aug. 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Waves of Shade follows up a series of left-leaning dihedrals and roofs along the upper striped wall of the Ship's Prow. Highlights of this route include wonderful, flowing movement and confidence inspiring gear - especially in all the sections of white rock. Plus great face climbing and an amazingly steep hand crack crux at the top of the wall!

The difficulty and lowish star rating are merely due to how fresh the line is. If it were to see a few repeats, I expect it'd earn its third star, and the difficulty would drop a letter grade or more.

P1.

5.10c, 130ft

Climb straight up the first dihedral/chimney off the thing grassy ledge. Cruise through different sections of very featured shatter before reaching the first band of white rock that ends in a left traversing roof (so good!). Rest in a thin band of black rock before launching into another section of white rock - this time on left-leaning fingers. Belay up and left in another black band.

P2.

5.10b, 115ft

Traverse left under the roof before finding some jugs to pull up over onto the face. Climb toward an obvious, wide crack above while chasing gear on really fun slab climbing. Hit a roof, and escape out right with a mantel. Fire the easy

looking

crack (5.10b), and belay on a large ledge above.

P3.

5.6, 40ft

Walk straight left around a bulge to reveal the major overhang of the final pitch. Climb a bit of 5.6, and belay on the sloping ledge below it.

P4.

5.11c/d, 70ft

Finish with 30 feet of super steep hands on great rock! Tape up, fight the pump, and don't come crashing into your belayer. This section is seriously fun and will be a real kick in the teeth if you're not fit. The rest of the pitch is victory lap to the top of the wall.

Location

Hike up toward the Loft past the

Leaning Tower

(a detached pillar on the features south flank). The route starts well before reaching the East Tower on a thin grassy ledge.

Protection

Doubles 0.2-#3

Triples 0.4-0.5 (optional)

Nuts

Draws

60m rope