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Peak Mountain 3

Adaptive Expectations

FA Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (December 2007)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Varied and interesting face climbing up the steep headwall in the amphitheater that separates P.I.H. and Capitalism & Freedom.

One heads-up move off the ground (5.8) leads to the first bolt. Climb an easy ramp up and left to a small ledge and the second bolt. Step left onto small face holds and follow five more bolts to the summit. There is a distinct crux encounter at the 5th bolt.

Location

Approach by climbing the first pitch of Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a/b). From the anchor, step right and climb an easy approach pitch (low fifth class) that angles right past 2 bolts and then straight up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of a broad, bush-covered ledge.

Descend by rappelling from the base of Adaptive Expectations to the top of pitch one of Capitalism & Freedom. Make one more rappel down that route.

CAUTION: you can not get to terra firma in one single-rope rappel from the base of Adaptive Expectations.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 1/2" Rawl-style sleeve bolts). Cruxes are very well protected.