- Edit (TBD)
Description
Two sustained and varied pitches up the large formation on the left side of the gully, opposite "Permanent Income Hypothesis."
Pitch 1, "Capitalism" (5.10a/b, 80 feet, 5 bolts)
Steep, edgy face climbing. The crux is reaching and passing the second bolt. Belay at a ledge from bolts.
Pitch 2, "Freedom" (5.9, 85 feet, 8 bolts)
Face climbing, chimneying, and liebacking make for an extremely varied pitch. The faint of heart will want additional pro through the crux sequence above the fifth bolt (the crack takes a #1 TCU up to 1.5"). A thought-provoking, slabby finish takes you to an airy and exposed summit. Belay from bolts.
Location
The route starts just a few feet left of "Permanent Income Hypothesis." Approach as for that route.
Two single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you back to the start of the route. Descend from here by making one more rappel from the top of P1 of "Free to Choose."
Protection
1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolts. An optional cam or two (tiny to 1.5")--the 2nd pitch crux is not optimally protected because the rock near the crux is not solid enough to yield a reliable bolt.