Love And War

Love and War is a freakin' awesome 190' mega-pitch of consistent 11a to a two-move 12a crux 180' off the deck.

After eight bolts of Bomb Shelter, fork left, then avoid drifting farther left into Golden Shower (or do drift left if you want to rig a top rope on Golden Shower). Once out of view of your belayer, you can rest on a short section of 5.7 before starting up a long and lonely 5.11- headwall (very well protected). At 180', you'll clip a bolt above your head then scratch your head at the WTF crux. The crux move actually isn't all that hard... once you find the hidden hold. The catch though is, finding that hidden hold on the onsight is damn hard!

If for whatever reason you need to bail, you can fix your line to a bolt, rap the line, then scramble up around the back with another rope and rap down from the summit off a bolted anchor. But, the bolts are close enough together you should be able to bumble your way up it with a stiffy draw.

Five slings are adequate to eliminate rope drag, though you'll appreciate using a lightweight rope! The bolts that need slings marked with tape wrapped on the hanger. Belay your second up from a nice ledge on top, then make two rappels with one rope (hitting the Golden Shower anchor on the way down).

Start up Bomb Shelter.

24 bolts, 5 slings.