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Peak Mountain 3

Luftwaffe

FA Eric Chemello
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Incredible climbing on great rock with many, many 5.11 cruxes. Starts off just under vertical then slowly steepens and the real climbing starts(5th bolt). Follow the bolts slightly left through sustained 5.11+ ground with a few unsatisfactory rests, topped by a heartbreaking bulge. Climb vertical 5.10+ for another 70ft to the anchor. No move is harder than 11c, but with a bunch of draws and 2 ropes hanging off you, not to mention a wicked pump, it feels damn hard!

Location

Middle of the Main Tower. Should see the first bolt about 10ft off the ground. The bolt line heads slightly left up nice yellow rock before it disappears over a dark bulge.

Protection

20 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A few long draws help, but not totally necessary. 2 ropes needed to get off. Figure out your cleaning/lowering system beforehand, you won't be able to see or hear your belayer from the anchor.