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Peak Mountain 3

A Colorful Little Orgy

FA Alex McIntyre Sept. 11, 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start left hand on obvious crescent jug at the bottom of the east face and right on an undercling pinch just under the roof below the jug. Make a hard move(s) (long arms helpful) into a crimp on the arete on lip of the north face and finish on "Northeast Arete Sit".

AKA the Jake Croft Memorial Boulder Problem and formerly The Summit Project. Found and tried by Raines, then handed off to Jake, who tried it extensively before moving to Sweden and handing it off to me. Psyched to finish the duo's hard work on this one in a night sesh with our homie Jefe.

Location

Starts laying down below the roof on the downhill side of the Quartzite Spring boulder. Starts left on a crescent jug just above the lip of the roof on the east face and an undercling pinch brick just below the roof adjacent to the jug. The left is the same start hold as for NE Arete SDS.

Protection

Three or more pads. The V2+ topout is less secure than it may seem and backslaps are likely while working the crux first sequence into the right hand start for NE Arete SDS. The landing slopes away, so a few small cams and cord/slings to fix the pads onto the slab are helpful.