Halcyon Nights

Starting the same as A Colorful Little Orgy on a left crescent jug low on the east face and right on an undercling pinch brick just under the roof adjacent to the jug, make the same hard sequence into the crimps on the lip of the north face arete and climb upwards into the jug shelf. From here, bust right onto the north face through a bizarre V6 or 7 face climb involving tenuous, delicate and extremely reachy movement on poor-to-non-holds with decent feet to the positive lip above an undercling arch feature.

Highly morpho and will feel easier with good conditions–the FA was done late night by floodlights for the best temperatures.

Same start as A Colorful Little Orgy, but exits right onto and up through the blankest section of the north face after gaining the jug shelf where the NE Arete Stand begins.

Sloping landing and insecure climbing means the more pads the better. Small cams and cord or slings are very useful to mitigate pad sliding.