Free Mojo

P1 - 10+/11- Roughly 40' down and right of the obvious giant chockstone in the chimney between the two formations. Starts up a nondescript crack that leads up to a two piece fixed anchor (green cord w/ bomber nut and link-cam in July 2019) on a pedestal on the right side of a small ledge with little trees. Fun, thought provoking moves. The guidebook shows the line stepping right, then left at one point, but I found that climbing straight up the crack to the anchor worked great. 100' or so.

P2 - Mid 11, Climb the obvious double incipient cracks to a sweet final move to a series of ledges. The guidebook implies the last move is the crux, but I found that relatively straight forward, perhaps due to fatter than average fingers. Slightly jizzly flared jams, awkward stances,and fiddly gear make this pitch challenging. Roughly 40 m. It would be easy to link this pitch with pitch 3, but would take you out of view of your potentially struggling partner. We belayed about 10' below the big golden corner on a nice ledge with an easy to build anchor in a vertical crack.

P3 - 10- Super short, 40'? of easy climbing after an awkward first move up the double seams.

P4 - 9, Climb the right crack, roughly 10' to the right of the corner. A balancy first move leads to easy climbing. The crack transitions to a left facing corner with a giant hollow flake, then back to a beautiful right facing corner. Fun easy climbing. 50m or so? Belay at a nice ledge.

P5 - 5.easy, Climb up, trending right till you meet the south arete, then follow it to the near the summit of the arete. Tell your follower to start climbing when they feel the rope go tight. Roughly 30' below the tip of the arete, just after a little tree, step around and down to the right of the arete and traverse into the notch. Belay your partner here to avoid rope drag. 80m or so.

P6 - 5.easy, Climb 25' or so to the summit. Watch out for goats!

Roughly 40' down to the right of the giant chockstone, to the right of a treed ledge that's about 20' off the deck, you'll see some nondescript cracks leading to a nice crack system that trends up to a large right facing golden face.

Location picture borrowed with permission from Wayne Wallace.

Stays in the shade till roughly 1pm.

Triples in little cams up to yellow aliens, then doubles to number 1, and a single 2 and three camalot. I also placed a few nuts, so a selection of small wires would also be helpful.