We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Dolphin Chimney

FA Fred Beckey and Jim Madsen, 1967
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Dolphin is the unmistakable dark chasm midway up SEWS and directly to the left of the Boving roof.  We climbed it a few years back as a variation of the Boving-Polluck but you could also approach via the SW Rib.

This is an amazing and unique offwidth/chimneying experience with a wild finish on great rock. A lack of good protection has probably minimized the number of ascents and definitely makes this a serious endeavor. I believe 5.9+ R describes the difficulties accurately.

Backpacks can easily be hauled from the belay.

After emerging from the chimney you rejoin the SW Rib for the final slabby arete.

Location

Hard to miss, but its about 100ft directly left of the Boving Roof.  Traverse left over easy terrain after the 3rd pitch of the Boving-Polluck or the 2nd pitch of the SW Rib.

Protection

Mostly your ability to chimney unless I was missing something. I brought gear to 5 (as the guidebook suggested)but other than the chockstone about 20ft up, the only pro I found was a few tiny nuts and cams I had no interest in testing. Once you reach the roof and begin the wild exit sequence, good gear placements abound.

A #6 might be big enough to protect the first 20 ft before the chockstone but I would not count on it. After the chockstone the chimney ranges between 1-2ft wide narrowing near the top(my best estimate). You might be able to burrow deeper into the chasm to find more pro and rope drag but I did not.