Beezlebub

Exiled to the shadows of the northwest side of Pinnacle Peak, guarded by a Cerebrus of bees, Beelzebub sits alone atop a crumbly scramble. The next step after you have been to Hades (10b/c), when I first found this climb I was puzzled by its relative obscurity, as it is easily one of the most aesthetic lines in the city often catching the eye and amazement of many hikers who dwell at the terminus of the Pinnacle trail.

Upon the first attempt, I quickly realized why it is not more popular; sharp, crumbly flakes line the inside of the offwidth, inflicting severe discomfort to all but the most masochistic ascentionists. I'm not sure who, if anyone, did the FA of this one (maybe JA or JW?), but it had certainly been a while since an attempt, as I knocked off at least several hundreds pounds of loose and progress-impeding rock during initial attempts and subsequent cleanings.

As it stands, most of the loose bits have been exfoliated off, and the climb goes clean on a modest rack. The old bolt near the crux, while worthless as protection, may assist you in keeping the rope out of the crack during a technical switch. It would be best to remove it and place a new anchor at the base of the climb for the belayer to clip into.

The moves surmounting the roof are quite memorable, and unless the rock continues to deteriorate, this should be one of the top 5 climbs in the Phoenix area.

The best approach is to go up to the main, shady Pinnacle Peak alcove on the north side, then continue following the cliff line to the right. This trail should be very easy to find and follow, if not you are too low and need to stay closer to the cliff. As you curve around west the trail worsens as you reach the base of the route. You will have to scramble up some crumbly boulders just below the climb to reach it.

I assume the name also serves as a pun to the seasonal bees.

x2 BD #5, #6 x1 BD .3 through #4 One or two extendable draws for under the roof.

2 bolt rap anchor at the top.