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Peak Mountain 3

Shalaylay Direct

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Description

The climb to the left of Fear of Flying. This is a demanding route with tedious footwork and very thin face moves. The start of this climb is 11a and moves up on a small arete. From there climb past 3 bolts and then work your way right to a crack where you can then put in a gray camalot. Climb up past more bolts on the thin face to the top.  Rock near the finish at the crux in a little crumbly.

Location

Start at 2 eyebolts at the bottom of south crack but up from the gulley. Once at the top of climb, for decent you have a few options. Climb the 3rd class to the summit, rope up though. Either rappel off the back or down south crack. There is another place to rappel halfway down south crack, this helps so that you dont get your ropes stuck.

Protection

2 good belay bolts at the bottom of south crack, bolts, one small piece. Top has one eye bolt and 2 back up glueins.