- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route follows a slightly right leaning crack and face. First pitch is best. The whole route to the top is 5.10d.
The route goes to the top of the rock, but people usually only do the first pitch, then rappel.
P1 5.10b Thin bouldery start to perfect locks, when the crack runs out go right for the classic route or left past 3 bolts for the new Gripinator multipitch. Classic finish- climb far right at the top past 5.7 run out knobs or straight over the 5.9 direct finish past one bolt to the anchors. Look for the old anchors in the bush or new anchors on the ledge 20' right to continue the climb. P2 5.10d From the ledge continue right around the block to a thin steep crack, past 2 fixed pins to the sloping huge ledge. P3 4”gear. 5.10b from the corner go up and right on an airy hand traverse to a perfect corner system, rings at the top 3 raps on a single 60m to the ground. Tie knots, its close to the ends!
Protection
Many small (Blue/Green/Yellow/Red Aliens and offset nuts at the start) then up to 2" for the 1st and 2nd pitches followed by 2 pieces of 4" gear back to thin corner ~0.5" for the 3rd pitch.
Routes in Main Wall (Right)
- 10True Grip5.10bTrad