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Peak Mountain 3

I sat on a sharpie

FA Ian Church, Matthew Algeo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Important Description Please Read

This is a two pitch climb, beginning with bolted anchor already half way up the wall, sitting at the mouth of the cave.  Look right to find first anchor. At this anchor, look up to the right and the first bolt will be on inner face of the arete. The crux is at the very beginning. Climb the face, over the top of the arete follow bolts to second anchor on ledge. Start of second pitch is belayed from inside of gully to the right. Look for the bolts to the right of the crack below tree.

Location

Route starts at the mouth of the cave half way up Center of Pie shop just to the left of the big roof. Route climbs the left arete of the roof. Approach by climbing, "Desiderata" or "The Last Dance" then scramble through the bushes up the gully toward mouth of cave. Look right to find first anchor on a large block just under Herbert's Crack.

Protection

Full trad rack for the approach to first bolted anchor, 10 draws to get you up the next 2 pitches.