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Description
Very cool edging on this slightly less than vert. face climb.
P1: Climb up over flakes and a piece or two to a bolt. Make a hard move here gaining a shallow corner and some techie gear. Move up the corner moving left from the corner clipping a bolt and then gaining a two bolt belay on a nice stance. 5.11a, 70'
P2: Move up and right from the belay heading for a bolt. It is rumored that there are tri-cam placements before the bolt but I must have missed them. If you miss them its a long way to the first bolt. Climb incredible horizontal edges past 5 bolts to gain a double bolted belay. A #2 Camalot is helpful before gaining the belay. 5.10c, 100'
Location
Approach brings one out at Carboman, head up the hill passing a drainage pool. Next route up from drainage. About 50 yds from Carboman.
Rap the route with two 60s
Protection
Single rack up to #2 Camalot. Full set stoppers.
QD's and a few long runners. Both pitches have bolted anchors.