Nuclear Free Zone

I felt the need to add this route as it’s a really fun first pitch and Jim Beyer put this one up in the early 80s. Solo of course and most likely a name tied to environmental activism as this was a huge part of Jim’s life.

Pitch 1: Boulder straight up slab or trend in from the right on a smooth ramp. Both most likely similar in grade and solid friction climbing. You’ll be happy to clip the only bolt on the route After the opening sequence but there’s still some more climbing. From here continue up sustained slab as you fiddle in small but solid cams. Eventually the climbing let’s off and you will encounter a variety of places to build a solid belay. 5.10

Pitch 2&3: The only topo that I have seen of this route has it completed in 4 pitches but if you make this one a little longer then the last pitch can be a rope stretcher to the trees. This pitch/pitches protects much better than the first so ample belay opportunities. 5.8

Pitch 4: Romp up easy terrain and punch a hole into the rhodos. This pitch can be very wet but still manageable. 5.7

Wander climbers left/skiers right along the  top of the cliff eventually bushwhacking down onto the tree peninsulas that you can view from route. We took the furthest left and lowest peninsula left a sling on a very small but sturdy tree on the bottom point of said vertical forest.

This route is located a good ways left passing by Tar Heels and Beyer Beware. It starts just right of a boulder against the wall with one bolt (recently replaced) 20’ up. You will see a left angling ramp to the right.

Doubles 00-.5, single .75-3, tricams, a second 60 meter rope of sorts to get down