- Edit (TBD)
Description
FA is not mine—was probably Dallas Branum. Merely adding more detail than rockclimbing.com has.P1 (30m): From the anchors of Simplicity, follow the crack system to your right. Pass the first pine to the right then follow the crack as it zig zags up the face. You'll come to a stellar belay ledge with a sturdy pine tree. As of April 17th, 2021, there is a single locking carabiner basket hitched to the tree for belay. Please leave this anchor for others to use after you.You can rappel from the pine tree to Simplicity's anchors and then from there to the ground with a 60m.P2 (55m): A rope stretcher if you have a 60m rope. Continue onto the exposed face for a low grade scramble—it could certainly be done in approach shoes. Follow the base of the wall on your left finding good protection here and there. Eventually you'll come to a boulder with a short (~20ft) slab section to your left. Climb the slab, top the boulder, and continue trending up and right then you're home free to the belay station. Look for the two bolts atop the steep face just below the overlook... they're in line with and above the crack for your anchor. Gear anchor only.P3 (15m): The traverse pitch. Climb onto the shelf above the face covered in lichens. 5m along the shelf there's a "chimney" that leads up to the overlook. There are good blocks to sling for a belay up above. The trail is about 10m above you.
Location
The furthest left (and lowest) route in South Slabs.Climb Simplicity to get to this route.
Protection
P1: natural (tree); P2: gear; P3: natural (rock pinch)
Routes in South Slab
- 2Beyond Simplicity5.6Trad