- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: Start at a large low-angle crack at the base of the slab that goes to the right end of a ledge about 60 ft up. Start up a another crack system by pulling an awkward mantle move (crux). Build a belay on the ledge 20 feet or so above the crux. 5.6, 40mP2 : Continue straight up off the belay on easy slab, eventually you will see a rap station on your leftNote: you can rap from here with 2 60m ropes, or rap with one rope left down the gully to intermediate anchors on a tree (not recommended)After the rap station trend right across some ledges and end up on slab below a large overhanging boulder with an orange underside, there are multiple places to build an anchor here. 5.4, 30mP3. From the belay beneath the boulder, you have a few options to top out: The first is to trend right to a short flaring chimney with a wide crack in the back. It is protectable but you will probably only need to place a piece or 2. Probably the best way out. 5.6, 15mThe second way is to exit via one of the overhanging sport/mixed routes on the boulder. Im not sure about the condition of the bolts or fixed hardware. (5.11a-5.12c)The third, and easiest way is to trend as far left as you can until you reach a small slab, pull this onto the ledge, then climb the boulder to the right onto the overlook. 5.2, 20mGranted the climbing isnt great, it is a safe route with straightforward gear that offers some good views on a clear day.
Location
30ft climbers right of Simplicity, the sport climb next to the large boulder at the end of the wall
Protection
Standard rack
Routes in South Slab
- 3Goat Trail5.6Trad