- Edit (TBD)
Description
Decently well protected modern route with great climbing.
Pitch 1: 10-, thin slabby crack sytem, ramble up and left to anchor.
Pitch 2: 10-, Fun chickenheads up to roof. Cracks and slabs to anchor on ledge.
Pitch 3: 11, Follow bolts and features up. Launch into the cruxy traverse down and left to difficult liebacking to anchor. A bit crispy at the top, but fun climbing. I suggest slings on bolts before traverse, and an easy lower from top anchor to backclean a bit for follower's sake.
Pitch 4: 5.7/5.8, Longer pitch largely shared with the original route.
Pitch 5: 5.11, Money pitch up the headwall. Glory climbing. Enjoy.
Pitch 6: 10, Arete slab and face features to the summit.
One rappel down to the descent behind and around spire.
Care was taken on the first ascent to not impact the original route.
Location
Starts at bottom of descent gulley at climber's left of spire.
Protection
Single rack cams small to 3", Decent nut selection, including smalls, many slings and draws