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Peak Mountain 3

Smokestack

FA Doug Robinson, Galen Rowell (1970)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 5.7 straight up the right facing dihedral. Just below the plateau traverse to the left. Gear anchor.

P2 5.10a crux just above the anchor. Some tcu's or small stoppers for protection. Easy afterwards. Tree-anchor.

P3 5.9 straight up through the obvious hand-crack. Afterwards traverse to the left (5.9) until 20ft below a chimney. Tree-anchor.

P4 Easy slab and chimney. Sling or rope-anchor.

P5 5.9 straight up through slab, some protection. Slightly left to a bolt and a flake. Head straight up above the flake and traverse to the left (second bolt). Gear anchor in the next crack.

P6 5.7 Well protected chimney or bad protected (easy) face. Easy terain above the chimney. Tree-anchor.

P7 5.8 Easy, unprotected slab until the start of the hand-crack. Well-protected and good fun! Gear-anchor on the small plateau just below the left-facing flare.

P8 5.9 Chimney/handcrack and some easy scrambling to the top. Gear anchor (small cams)

Location

See area-description. Start at the obvious rightfacing dihedral in the middle of the southern Rabbit Ear.

Descent: when just below the summit block, walk around and descent through the gully, some third class scrambling, two rappels possible to avoid harder downclimbing.

Protection

Gear to 4". Some tcu's come in handy at the crux. Gear anchors.