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Peak Mountain 3

Moraviana

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Description

A very moderate two pitch climb, with the crux being towards the top of the last pitch.

Moraviana starts to the right up the upper slab, and quickly enters a left facing corner. There's some vegetation in the crack which makes getting protection tricky. Easy moves past the corner lead to old rusted bolts for a belay.

The second pitch begins with a long scramble up fourth class terrain before you reach a nice vertical section, with some fun moves.

It's an easy climb, and easy to protect. The location is great late in the day, with a beautiful sunset.

I loved this climb, it's off the path enough that you get away from the mobs at the precipice and otter cliffs.

Location

South Bubble, start above the lower slab, on the right.

A climbers trail at the left of the top of the cliff allegedly exists, we scrabbled right through the brush and down some 5.4 stuff then traversed back on the cliff to the belay between the pitches to rap out.

Overlooks Jordan Pond

Protection

Basic trad rack.

Bolts provides an anchor for the end of the first pitch, the guidebook says another fixed anchor is at the end of pitch 2, but we couldn't find it.