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Peak Mountain 3

Gargoyle

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Description

From the bolt anchor atop the Upper Slab, angle left across a grassy ledge to reach an obvious buttress. Either climb out onto the buttress immediately and follow it up (5.6) or follow the right-facing corner to a tree before traversing left onto the buttress (5.5).

Head for some chockstones in a broken down section, and climb over them. Pass a small bulge, backing up a questionable fixed pin. Keep right and head for the fist-sized crack above, using it to pull over the crux bulge near the top (5.8). Belay from a gear anchor on the comfortable ledge.

Location

Start from bolt anchor at top left of Upper Slab.

From the top of the climb, a couple of exposed 3rd-class moves take you to the summit, whence you can hike back to the base of the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot or equivalent. Extra fist-sized cams or large hexes for anchor.