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Peak Mountain 3

Hung Like a Troll

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Description

This route begins in the next right-leaning crack system right of Hairlip BJ Ecstasy (this crack system should not be confused with the next one to the right, which starts off a prominent block, and is the start of the route Gully.) 10 feet after the initial crack becomes a right-facing corner (at the right end of the obvious roof system), look for an prominent overhanging flake system on the left wall bearing bolts. This quality feature is the reason to do this route. Continue up these flakes to the crux face moves, then the ledge and anchors above. The last 30 feet overhang almost 10 feet. Strenuous and fun! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Location

Upper left end of the wall; the first crack immediately right of Hairlip BJ Ecstasy (see Squeezing the Lemmon.)

Protection

4 bolts, pro to 3".