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Peak Mountain 3

Sudden Death

FA Mike Strassman, Alex Kiss
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This demanding climb is interesting, varied, and well protected. Look for the prominent, left-facing corner system that switches cracks about 25 feet up. It is best to establish the belayer at the ledge at the base of the steep climbing. Some climbers will do this route in two pitches, stopping at the infamous sudden death belay block (which is well-attached to the wall.) This is an awkward and uncomfortable belay station, and one of the two following options is suggested. The best way to do this climb is in one pitch to the top. This requires a number of long runners, and thoughtful placements to reduce rope-drag. The other option is to belay approximately 65 feet above the ground, before the traverse right and up to the sudden death belay. This belay stance is small, but good protection is available. Either way, this is an excellent climb and should not be missed. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

Location

See Squeezing the Lemmon.

Protection

Pro to 3", anchors.