North Couloir (Engram Couloir)

Following the obvious, steep breach of the montain's north face, this is a steep line offering pleasant exposure, with sustained 60-65 degree snow/ice portions. It stands as one of the steepest couloirs in the High Sierra, save for Ice Nine and Mendel Right. Depending upon the snow year, a bottleneck of rock half way up may involve a few simple mixed moves to surmount. Upon reaching the top of the couloir, either take the 5.6 chimney to the summit. Or drop 40 feet to the other side and enjoy a somewhat exposed, but extremely well-protected, class 4 ramp.Not the most straightforward peak to get off of, but nevertheless one that can be done @ the 2nd/3rd class level. Other options may exist, but I found the descent over Treasure Col and down to the lakes of the same name quite easy and without difficulty. See the included photo in this album.

Singles up to #2, nuts, 1-2 pickets to manage rope around corners (if neve/Summer conditions), 8-12 ice screws (if climbing in Fall). Crampons, two ice tools.